Wednesday, 7 November 2007

2nd November – Jasper – Lake Louise, AB

A bit of a grey old day this morning though it didn’t matter as we were going to drive the Icefields Parkway from Jasper through to Lake Louise. At the start we thought it was going to like driving the Nullabour as we saw no cars, but that changed with a few cars on the road. Our first spot was the Athabasca Falls. These falls cut through the limestone forming a deep gorge. Snow was on the ground and the path was slippery with ice. We are still getting used to walking on ice. The water in the river was an intense blue. It was the most intense blue colour we had seen on the trip so far.
The Rockies are fantastic as we climbed we could see the Columbia Icefield in the distance. It looked cold!!
On the plain at the foot of the glacier we stopped on the side of the road. We could as there was hardly any traffic, something that would be difficult in peak tourist season! Tan jumped out, with out her down jacket (which hasn’t really left her side for the last two months), and we got some photos of the Columbia Ice Field. It was very impressive and we were about two weeks too late to head up to the Ice Field. The road was covered in ice and when you touched the brakes you slid quite a bit. Even taking off from a stop was hard as the wheels spun with only moderate acceleration. On the way back down we watched a van pull into a siding on the road a bit quick and he was out of control for about 20m!! Dangerous stuff this ice. Funny too think that in the Victorian Alps we would have been driving with chains while here people were ripping past us like it was no tomorrow. The plow had been through days previous and the snow wasn’t too thick.
Coming down some of the hills the views were magical. This one stretch of road had a huge loop in it as you made it to the river valley. We passed Mistaya Lake, once again blu-ish, but not post card material. The snow capped mountains and pine trees weren’t too bad though.
We arrived at Peyto Lake and Bow Pass, the highest road pass in the parks area at 2,088m above sea level, Mt Bogong in Victoria is 1,986m from memory! The snow was thick here, as you could imagine being the highest point! We parked in the snow filled car park and made it up the road to Peyto Lake. We followed the track up in 6 – 8 inches of snow, following footsteps most of the way up. Tan’s ankle socks don’t cut the mustard in deep snow.

As we arrived at Peyto Lake, four people left. We had this priceless view to ourselves!! Peyto Lake is glacially fed and brilliantly turquoise and is touted to be the most blue lake in the world!! Breath taking!! It was a little cloudy but still beautiful. We did a walk the 600m walk around the track above the lake. Powdery snow was blowing off the pines, dusting us with it as we passed. One section was untouched since the last snow fall and snow was deep (for our standards) but so light and fluffy – check the video out. It looks like I haven't got any feet.



Back at Peyto Lake the sun had come out making it more brilliant. As we walked off, an old couple arrived. “You can have it to yourselves!!!” we said. They were the two that beat us to Maligne Lake yesterday and said the same to us as they were leaving!
Locally, the road was very icy coming down off the pass.
We arrived in Lake Louise, a charming little town in the Banff National Park. We booked into to our accommodation. The river here had boulders covered in snow and the edges were sheets of ice. As the weather wasn’t too bad we decided to hit Lake Louise and we were so glad we did. Lake Louise, though not a blue as Peyto Lake, is so accessible and so pretty and picturesque. We took some photos of some Aussies there and they did the same. We think this is the best photo of the trip so far. That night was hung out in the pub and met this somewhat pissed local. He told us about this Aussie bloke who used to hunting and made him laugh a lot especially with his bird call. I responded with “Did it sound like this Kooka-kooka-ka-ka… a dodgy Kookaburra”. We was instantly laughing. I guess it was the one he was chasing. The waitress lit the fire lit but it wasn’t roaring until I gave it some decent amount of wood. (The wood was sitting there and it wanted to be burnt!)
We walked back to our room and it was really chilly, 2cm of snow had fallen during our dinner and it was still snowing! Check out our car.

Friday, 2 November 2007

1st November –Jasper, Canadian Rockies, AB

The sun lifted above the horizon to fill our day with white. Yes, it snowed, locally heavy last night to 5cm. We opened the window to a woman brushing snow and scraping ice off her car. Drinking coffee from our breakfast table looking out on the mountains with fresh snow on them - it’s pretty good!
We got our car from the snow less undercover car park and we were off to explore. the town and then the surrounds.We weren’t even out of the town when we stopped to let two white-tail deer cross the road. Well, one did and the other was like an emu constantly changing lanes and indecisive. It finally made it in the headlight of some large utes (trucks).

We got on to the Maligne Lake Rd, with only a few tyre tracks in the cover of snow. The trees glistened with fresh snow and not even 5km along the road, two more deer which stuck out well on the white road. The rules here are: Don’t stop for wildlife on the road and don’t get closer than 30m. These two little deer were unfamiliar with the rules and we drove along side of them for a photo, they didn’t want to move. As we approached Medicine Lake there was only one set of tyre tracks in the snow. The weather was cold, but pleasant, the trees and mountains were white and we literally had this normally busy part of the parks to ourselves!

At Medicine Lake, the Maligne River, a broad braided stream valley, seasonally low flowing (it has the greatest flow in the spring run-off) actually disappears. It was weird to see the water just disappear into an underground network of caves. This is one of the largest underground river systems in North America. Having the park to ourselves meant we could stop in the middle of the road, take photos and suck it all in, such as stopping along side the river above the lake. Maligne Lake is deep, up to 96m and is glacier fed and under this bridge I saw a nice trout. We went for a stroll on the snow covered path along the lake edge and we found the culprits who put those tyre prints in the snow. They were leaving though. We had it to ourselves, for now. Animal tracks littered the paths, mainly squirrels and the odd bird and now two more humans. The view of the mountains and green colour to the lake and the isolation made it pretty special. Tan played in the snow! I touched up the snow covered 3D model of the mountain range to make it more realistic.In the car park I had a little play and all I can say is the snow and ice can be very slippery. I have greater respect for the road surface now.

After our walk we saw three more people and the road looked more traveled. As soon as we got in the car the intermittent snow flurries turned into a quick snow shower, Good timing. Tan was driving on the way back when I said “Stop!”. A bighorn sheep was nibbling on snow on the road. He was not moving for anyone. Tan approached slowly and we passed within 1m of him. I snapped a quick shot. This wildlife stuff is great. At least with roos they get scared and hop off these things are big and don’t have any worries with cars. At Maligne Canyon, the water appears and cut through soft limestone. Waterfalls to 38m are present and the walk along the canyon and across the bridges was pretty, albeit slippery with all the ice on the smooth limestone. Back in the main river valley the suns display on the mountains made them like big ice cream sundaes!
A quick detour via town and we took the road to Whistlers, the base of the gondola which was closed for the summer tourist season. The views of Jasper town were impressive and snow was 8cm thick and really fluffy and light. On the way back we saw another five deer and just past the entrance to town, our first elk. Two does were eating grass on the hill on the side of the road. On the way through town we spotted two bull elk, majestic on the side of the road. They walked off out of view and we were stopped on a corner (damn tourists) so we were off again. Patricia Lake was also nice but the wind coming off the lake surface was the coldest Tan had been for the day.
Back in town, we were on Elk patrol. Within minutes we spotted the two bulls, eating grass on the verge outside of houses across from the fenced in playground. We worked out why some people have big fences in town now. We had to laugh when one of the bulls broke through the gate on one house making a racket. We were in our car across the road when some one peered at us from the curtain. Minutes later, the elk ran out of the yard through the broken gate with an irate man throwing sticks at him! He joined his mate on the verge two doors up seeming non-plussed by the event. About 500m up the road in the car park, there were another seven elk eating away and then further along another three having a fresh grass feed. The fence in this yard was pretty ineffective. Once again, like every other animal today they walked past the vehicle, close enough to touch.

We had seen enough elk and snow to last a life time but this is only our first full day in the park. We cant wait to see what fills our next week in Alberta!

31st October – Edmonton - Jasper, AB

Happy Halloween!!

Leaving Edmonton this morning was a little freaky. You know how some people dress up and look weird but that’s how they dress anyway. Imagine if most of the people you see are like that. Yep! That’s Halloween. On the drive out we passed pirates, Goths and old grannies. The latter weren’t dressed up though.

The plains towards the Rockies were flat with barns and the occasional tractor (mostly John Deere's of course). The plains were dry and all of the crops and grasses were all brown, dried off for winter. We passed power stations, oil wells pumping away and coal mines. We even got to see a dragline working close to the road (a first for me). Approaching Hinton, and the puddles were frozen and there were lots of big trucks, F150’s and up, everywhere and lots of compressor trucks for oil drilling. Our little Yaris had an inferior complex around these big machines. Near Hinton, there was snow on the ground, the occasional white tail deer and Tan was first to spot the snow covered Rockies in the distance. We were wrapped to see them.

Arriving at the gate to Jasper National Park, we blew $123 on an annual parks pass. We may be back! The wind was really bitingly cold but the snow capped mountains made it for us. Driving along and seeing the signs about wild life made us laugh!!After 385km of touring we made it to Jasper. A late lunch, and then we booked in to the Park Place Inn. Tan’s research paid off with a great off season deal in a big room with a spa and views of the mountains. Good score Kitchy! We walked around town and went into the Parks Canada Info centre. We had a great chat to the ladies there, found out some good info, saw a stuffed wolf, played with dead animals, ate their Halloween candy and checked out their Jack-o-lanterns. Outside there were heaps of droppings, most probably elk, but the wildlife were far and low. The lady said “There are elk everywhere, I even had to go home a different way as a bull elk was working the streets!”
Oh well, our walk was fruitless. After a big drive, we hit the spa with a nice drop of Canadian chardie. No photos!

It was below zero without wind chill when we went to the Jasper Brewing Company. I took the Pick Six, six ounces each of six different beers which hit the spot. On the way out I had to do the “Me, Myself and Irene” impression with the Big Horn sheep. Jim Carrey did a better job with the cow!

30th October – Edmonton, AB

It was nice to wake up this morning to the sunrise over the city of Edmonton (at 8.30am – a little later than Raven and our first sleep in for five weeks). Did we miss camp – well maybe for a second or two and then we got over it. Today we decided to head out to the West Edmonton Mall, (I may have mentioned once or twice that it is the biggest in North America.. hehehe). After breakfast, we headed out to the mall following Heathers instructions with a quick detour via the University of Alberta). We arrived at the mall and it looked big but not huge. We headed inside and the first thing we saw was an ice rink – with Seniors hour on. We were to embarrassed to give it a shot as everyone of those oldies would have been able to skate far better than either of us. The mall also has an area that has seal shows, underwater diving and snorkeling and flamingos – as you would expect at a shopping centre. There were also lots of aquatic inspired statues such as this whale. First things first, Dan had to go and get the afro removed again (I’m not missing the fuzzy hair or the Newfie porn mo). We wandered around the shopping centre (which was massive as we never saw the whole lot) and finally found a Starbucks (no crappy Tim Hortons coffee for us… EVER) and had our first latte and chai latte in five weeks…mmmm.

We bought our bathers to the mall (just in case) and spied the pools and slides and thought why not. What a good idea when it is 5 degrees outside to go swimming. We togged up and ventured into the complex. The centre has 14 slides and an enormous wave pool (Tim you would of loved it!!). We climbed halfway up the stairs and realized that the only slide open at that time was the biggest and fastest slide in the whole complex (see photo, it’s the red one) the skyscreamer. It’s 25 metres high and goes from top to bottom in around 4 seconds. Dan was on his own on that one. He roared down in no time and loved it and raced up again for round two. We both went down the Twister next when it opened. Lots of fun and we did another couple of times again racing each other.

We eventually went down the purple slide (next to the photo of the red slide) which was so fast, we both got air and lifted off the slide. I almost lost my bathers on entry. Not a good look. I had to sit on the stairs for a few minutes to stop shaking in terror whilst Dan went again for another go.

We played around in the wave pool for a while body surfing and generally having a lot of fun. Eventually we decided to call it a day. Dan said it was the best day at the mall he had ever had (just need an aquatic centre with slides installed at Garden City and all will be good!!).

We made it back to the hotel, in time for the hotels complimentary wine and cheese tasting (OK guzzling for us). In one hour we managed to consume 8 glasses of wine and three plates of cheese (hey, we have been out bush for a while). When everyone left at six thirty and all the wine was packed away, I ventured out the back and managed to score another couple of glasses (go Aussies). We met a lovely chap from Regina in Saskatchewan who sold surgical instruments (?). We was very nice, and later on in the evening we ran into him again in the Mexican Restaurant next door. We continued chatting washing it down with Mexican, Sangria and Pacifico beer. We later found out this lovely man had bought us desert without us knowing so we enjoyed that too. What a cheap night out – we should do this more often…hehehe.